Dog Friendly Edinburgh

Edinburgh is a wonderfully dog friendly capital, compact enough to explore on foot and ringed by hills, beaches and green space. Dogs are welcome on the buses and trams, in a great many pubs and cafes, and across huge open areas like Holyrood Park and the Meadows. Assistance dogs aside, the main closed doors are big ticketed sights such as Edinburgh Castle, so plan around the outdoors.

Yes, and easily. Dogs travel free on Lothian Buses and Edinburgh Trams, kept on a lead and off the seats, though it is at the driver's discretion and usually one dog at a time with priority given to assistance dogs. ScotRail lets you take up to two dogs on the train free of charge. Keep your dog under control and out of other passengers' way.

Scotland has open access rights, so dogs can be off the lead in many parks and hills provided they are under close control and away from livestock and wildlife. Holyrood Park, with Arthur's Seat, the Meadows and Cammo Estate are all popular for this. During ground-nesting bird season and anywhere near sheep, keep your dog on a lead, and always follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code.

Edinburgh does not really do fenced dog parks in the American sense; instead it has vast shared green spaces. The Meadows and Bruntsfield Links give flat, central room to roam, Holyrood Park offers hills and lochs, Inverleith Park sits beside the Botanics, and the Water of Leith Walkway threads a wooded river path across the city. All are shared with walkers, so keep your dog under control.

Scotland leaves it to each venue, and Edinburgh landlords are famously welcoming, so a great many pubs, cafes and some restaurants allow dogs, often with a water bowl and treats by the bar. Whether hot food is served is usually the deciding factor, as some kitchens limit dogs to certain areas. Always check on the way in, and keep your dog settled beside your table.

Climb Arthur's Seat in Holyrood Park for the city's best views, take in the monuments on Calton Hill, wander the fairytale lanes of Dean Village and follow the Water of Leith through Stockbridge. Portobello promenade makes a breezy seaside stroll out of season. Edinburgh Castle does not admit dogs other than assistance dogs, so save the big indoor sights for another visit.

Portobello is the city beach, a long sandy promenade a short bus ride away, though seasonal restrictions apply on the main stretch in summer, roughly May to September, while the quieter Joppa end and the winter months are more relaxed, so check the signage. Cramond, to the north-west, offers big tidal sands and a causeway walk. Further out, the East Lothian coast at Yellowcraig and Gullane is superb.

By Scottish law every dog over eight weeks old must be microchipped, and owners must clean up after them or face a fixed penalty, currently 80 pounds in Edinburgh. There is no blanket lead law, but dogs must be kept under proper control, and a lead is expected near roads, livestock and in signed areas. Follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code and lead up around wildlife and grazing animals.